'Green' Street Vendors...

Some cities are stuck with the same old street vendors selling the same old sad food-in Washington, DC, they did something about it. They actually surveyed the city's residents to find out what they wanted from street vendors; then issued new permits/licenses to entrepreneurs/vendors who wanted to try something new. I'm not sure if it's working, but this electric vehicle from "On the Fly", parked in downtown DC, selling Daily Specials of Thai Red Curry and Chilled Udon is a pretty good start. The gourmet pupusa vendors can't be far behind....








What is it with Buddhist monks and H&M?

James Beard Best New Restaurant-Central Michel Richard

There is something very special about a restaurant that compels you to make a mad dash from the airport to eat there. Washington, DC's Central (pronounced cen-TRAHL), Michel Richard's reasonably-priced bistro at Pennsylvania Avenue and 11th St is just such a place. And by reasonably-priced, I mean a boatload less than his flagship Citronelle, and surprisingly less than many other swanky downtown DC spots. And although there are the usual DC-types here, if you are casually dressed, as many people were when I was there for lunch last week, you are still treated like you took the time to dress up. Arriving at National Airport at 9:30 AM, the constant companion and I took a leisurely Metro ride up to 11th and G, just a few blocks away, and then dropped into a Starbucks to read The Onion (yes, it's available free in news boxes here), and kill some time (see below). (Notice the opened newspaper across the chest-helps to keep you warm and cozy.)

I've gushed about Chef Richard before, http://dailycocaine.blogspot.com/2008/03/miami-dc-goes-to-washington-dc-with.html and his staff, and on my return visit we were again served by the super-efficient Raquel, and manager Jennifer Lucy was a teriffic hostess who spent some time chatting with us, especially about the amazing 'Happy In The Kitchen', Chef Richard's cookbook. Speaking of hostesses, as we arrived with our bags in tow, they graciously found an out of the way spot for them, with smiles all around. After the beatings we're used to in some Miami spots, we were almost overcome with gratitude, for what was really a simple, yet thoughtful gesture.

The food-I've already described and photographed the Faux Gras and the Duck Rillettes. They are still sublime, as are the pickled onions, cornichons, and bread that comes with them. Quick point-it is not enough to bake your own bread in a restaurant (hello some Miami joints), it also has to be good-this is the good stuff. Great touch of adding the big sprig of fresh rosemary to the serving board-its aroma wafts up to your nose (or you can pick it up and inhale), and gives you an unexpected frisson of the country.

Tuna Burger-What a cliche you are thinking! How '80's! Wrong. This is like a tuna tartare that has been seasoned well, then quickly pan-fried to a hamburger-like crunch on the outside. Home made bun? Yes. Homemade mayonnaise? Yes. Fresh tomato? Uh-huh. Crunchy potato tuiles to put on top with perfectly cooked fries? Yes, yes, and Ahi freakin tuna, by the way. A full meal at lunch for $19. The recipe calls for anchovies, basil, fresh garlic, and soy sauce for the burger, and fresh ginger in the mayo-Chef Richard was influenced by the sushi restaurants of L.A. when he first arrived in California, and his classic tuna burger seems timeless.

Fried chicken. This is unlike any fried chicken you are likely to have. The boneless breast and thigh meat are poached, then covered in a chicken puree/egg white mixture, before being rolled in coarse, fresh bread crumbs. They are deep-fried just until the coating is crisp, maybe two minutes, and they are served immediately-when you cut into this chicken, the juices, my friend, do run. And the service at Central is superb-when food this good is coming out of the kitchen, everyone wants to ensure that it gets to your table hot and fast. And since the bread crumbs are left coarse, there are big crunchy bits all over the place. Served with the legendary mashed potatoes and a simple mustard sauce. And of course, the perfect little salad. Four-star cooking for $21.

Drank a nice $6 rosé or two, and admired the enormous open kitchen for a while-an entire city seemed to be working back there. And getting it right.

I guess what I'm saying is, the next time you are in DC, get off the plane and head straight to Central. Business, family, and all other obligations can wait. If they live there, and they've been here, they'll understand.

Dinner Battles...Woman Versus Man...Woman Wins...

Before trekking up to Washington, DC, for a good dose of family (and a stop at Michel Richard's Central, of course-more on that tomorrow), my constant companion concocted a pork chop in brandy sauce dinner (actually using Calvados, the French brandy made from apples), after her fresh fish desire was trampled by the dour offerings of the local supermarket. Too tired to go any further, I picked up a couple of pork loin bone-in chops that were on sale for just $2.49/lb. These chops are about a pound each, and CC, who was really craving the side dishes of curried jasmine rice, and carrot 'pudding', put them in the oven for about 40 minutes, then finished them on the stove with the aforementioned Calvados. She made the carrot sides by pureeing them, then adding butter and cream. Into the oven with the chops. I did the rice (boil water, throw in rice and curry powder, cover, light a cigarette). The Calvados adds such a clean flavor to the scraped up bits, then tossed over the chops in the skillet, where the sauce caramelizes and soaks into the juicy flesh, leaving a bit of crunch on the outside of the chops. Very satisfying on so many level....








Not to be outdone in the pork/brandy competition (I'm a bad loser, but then so is she), upon our return to Miami, a week later (not that I'd been thinking about it much...), I threw a pork loin in the oven. Then I boiled some potatoes for mashed potatoes, which I was going to cook according to Chef Richard's recipe; but then I realized I was too lazy to brown, and then separate the butter, whip it in a little at a time, etc. Hey-my A/C's not working that well-the fewer steps the better-at least that's what I tell myself. I added a wrist flip of vanilla to the mashed potatoes and a slight shake of truffle oil I've had lying around for a while, and softened butter and warmed cream. Then I took the loin out of the oven, and while it was resting (you should always let your oven-roasted meats rest a bit before serving), I scraped out the brown bits from the roasting pan on top of the stove, while I deglazed the pan with Calvados. Then I added a little (what else) butter and cream, and some dried fried onions. I have to report that the mashed potatoes were silky and lumpy at the same time, and the subtle hints of truffe and vanille classed up the dish (as anyone who knows me will attest, I'm all about classing up shit). The loin was moist under the 'brandy cream' sauce, but it didn't have the overall succulence and juiciness of the chops. I served fresh corn, also, which, for reasons I understand perfectly, people feel the need to slather in butter-I prefer it au naturel. Next up, what else, pork loin tacos...

Next time, I'll get you, darlin'....

Whole Fried Red Snapper & A 'Lost' Cuban Beer...

Latin Cafe is one of my favorite cheap local haunts. Cold Hatuey beers for $3, and a great 'Whole Fried Red Snapper' which comes with salad and tostones (make sure you get the garlic mojo) for $14.95-enough for two. This is the kind of place you tell your friends about. The fish is fried crisp, and the flesh is moist and hot inside. And don't forget about the flan de coco (coconut). My constant companion and I fought over the last bit like two wild dogs going after a chicken bone (see photo below and you'll understand). I let her win...

By the way, when you get a whole fish, you get the two best parts that you don't get when you order a fillet-the head and the tail. And if you haven't tried it, you will be surprised at the juiciness and richness of the flesh of both. And it's okay to eat with your fingers. In fact, it's mandatory...

Latin Cafe 2000
2501 Biscayne Blvd.
Miami, FL 33137
305-576-3838
http://www.latincafe2000.com/

NB-Hatuey was brewed in Maryland for years (by Bacardi) but is now brewed in that other hotbed of Cubanismo, Wisconsin.

The whole story's at http://www.miami.com/culinary-cage-match-snapper-article